
Jaisalmer
One of the world's last inhabited fortresses — roughly 3,000 people still live inside the walls — plus the merchant havelis and the dunes past Khuri. What makes Jaisalmerworth a long conversation isn’t in any guidebook. It’s in the rhythm of who runs the lodges, which naturalist is in the field that month, and which lanes the festival actually unfolds in. We plan trips here the way locals plan a weekend — knowing what’s open, what’s in season, what’s worth skipping.
Things worth doing
- A living fort — 3,000 residents, not a monument
- Patwon ki Haveli's five mansions and their lace-cut jali
- Khuri, not Sam, for dunes without generators
- Kuldhara, abandoned in the 1820s and never reoccupied
- November to February only. Summer here is genuinely dangerous

Who plans this · Heritage
Reena on Jaisalmer.
Heritage travel is where India quietly outclasses everywhere else. We focus on the unrenovated, the under-visited, and the families still living inside the walls.
“The places that change you are the ones you couldn't have found yourself.”
When to go
- Oct–Feb
- Cool air, prime sightings, parks at full life.
- Mar–Apr
- Leaner forest, easier sightings if you can take the heat.
- Jun–Sep
- Many parks closed for monsoon; cultural and Himalayan trips shine.
Pairs well with
Three places we often plan in the same trip.

Uttarakhand
Auli & Garhwal
The Garhwal high country — Auli, Joshimath, the Valley of Flowers — for travellers who want meadows and serious mountains in one trip.

West Bengal
Bishnupur
The terracotta temple town of the Malla kings. Brick the colour of dried blood, panels that read like a Mahabharata graphic novel.

Rajasthan
Bundi
A blue-painted hill town with a 14th-century palace nobody renovated, stepwells in residential lanes, and Kipling's old guesthouse still standing.